Then you can put the top piece on while pinching the buttons in and test that everything fits the way it should. Using different colored wire helps, and so does the positive and negative imprint on the top.įor the final step, you need to connect the top and bottom together while sandwiching the buttons and springs into the sides.įirst, I cut my spring in half and then placed each piece in the little seat that’s built into the sides. Once the spades were in and glued up, I soldered the wires to their corresponding connector, careful to keep positive on one side and negative on the other. That said, my version is proof that you can go back in with some pliers and snips to tweak it and shave it down if you need to. Long story short, you can save yourself a lot of stress by having a Dewalt battery nearby and testing to make sure you have the fit right before you glue the terminals in place. And I originally had them poking out pretty far and then later had to trim them back. I wasn’t sure if the spades should be positioned closer in or further out. You have to trim away some of the connector to get it in there. This part is a headache on a lot of levels. Next you have to press fit the spade connectors into the bottom piece. You can always tuck the extra wire up into the top piece. Make sure to leave the wires a little long so they can reach out to the bottom connectors with room to spare. You have to remove the insulation around the connector, solder on the wire, and then snap it into place and set it with some CA glue. I started with the spade connectors at the top. But if you’re moving a lot of current over a long time, these small wires might burn up. In addition to the 3D printed pieces, you’ll need 4 machine screws and nuts, blue spade terminals, some short lengths of wire, some CA glue, and the spring from a retractable pen.įor what it’s worth, I probably should have used a thicker gauge of wire than the stranded hookup wire here, but it got the job the done. I printed these up using standard PLA filament, and the settings called out in the guide. There’s the top, the base, and the clip-which you need to print two of. With this adapter, I can run my Ryobi tools off Dewalt’s 20v batteries, which are close enough in voltage that it hasn’t caused any problems for me yet.įrom the project page on Thingiverse you can download the three parts you need to make this. I love these, but it stinks to have a whole separate system of batteries I need to buy and charge. Ryobi doesn’t make a lot of great tools, but they do make a few useful ones that no one else makes - like this cordless glue gun, and this portable air pump. You can find links to everything I’m talking about in the description, but for this video, I’m going to walk you through what it’s like to build one for yourself. I’ve built it and it works, but it’s not a slam dunk, especially since there’s a legit $20 adapter that does the same thing. This is an adapter that allows you to plug 20v Dewalt tool batteries into 18v Ryobi tools. Hey, I’m Donald Bell for Maker Project Lab, and in this video I’m going to go over a project by Jay Rugland. They also make a Milwaukee-to-Ryobi adapter (Amazon Associate link): Similar Dewalt 18 volt to Dewalt Lithium Ion 20 Volt Adapter, but w/ Battery Monitor Blue Spade Terminals (Amazon Associate link):
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |